A title is a state document showing ownership and the car's legal status. Its type does not describe the damage, but it shows how the insurer has already assessed the car and what can be done with it next.
Main document types
| Type | What it means | What it affects |
|---|---|---|
| Clean | The car was not declared a total loss | It may still be damaged (for example, no insurance claim was made), so a clean title does not mean an undamaged car |
| Salvage | The insurer declared a total loss | The usual document for damaged lots; in the US the car must be repaired and pass an inspection to be driven again |
| Rebuilt / Reconstructed / Prior Salvage | Formerly Salvage, repaired and inspected by the state | It has already been repaired: how it was done matters |
| Certificate of Destruction / Non-Repairable / Parts Only / Junk | The car was written off for parts or scrap | It cannot return to US roads. Export rules depend on the state and the auction, so check before you bid |
| Bill of Sale | A bill of sale only, with no title | Happens with older cars in some states. It is a separate risk for customs clearance and registration |
Title brands worth checking separately
- Flood / Water Damage: the car has been in water. See Flooded car.
- Fire Damage: a fire. See Fire: Burn Engine and Burn Interior.
- Lemon / Manufacturer Buyback: the manufacturer bought the car back because of repeated defects. Check which ones in the Model faults section.
- Not Actual Mileage / Exceeds Mechanical Limits: the mileage is not confirmed.
- Theft Recovery: the car was stolen and recovered. Interior parts, wheels or control modules are often missing.
Why the title type affects the price in Ukraine
For registration in Ukraine, the documents matter, not the US status. Still, the title type hints at severity: a Salvage car after water or fire is almost always more expensive to restore than a Salvage car after a light bumper knock. And Clean at auction often means there was no insurance payout and nobody described the damage independently.
Order of checks: match the VIN on the title with the VIN on the plate photos, read the brands, then look at the history (see VIN and damage history).